Find out what kind of noise it is
Grinding usually means dry or worn rollers. Rattling is loose hardware. A rhythmic squeak that speeds up with the door is a hinge or a bearing. A single loud bang, on the other hand, is almost always a spring letting go, and that is not a maintenance job.
Tighten the hardware first
With the door closed, go along the hinges, the track brackets and the bolts holding the track to the wall with a socket wrench. Snug, not gorilla-tight. Over-tightening strips the wood or pulls the hinge through the panel. This alone silences a lot of rattling doors.
Replace steel rollers with nylon
Most builder-grade doors ship with plain steel rollers that get loud as the bearings wear. Nylon rollers with sealed bearings are dramatically quieter and last longer. This is the single biggest noise improvement on an older door.
Lubricate the right parts, and not the track
Use a garage-door-specific lithium or silicone spray on hinges, roller bearings, springs and the opener rail. Do not grease the inside of the track. The rollers are meant to roll along it, and grease there collects grit and makes things worse. Never use WD-40 as a lubricant here; it is a solvent and it strips what little grease is left.
Check the opener drive
A chain drive that has stretched will slap against the rail. Most openers have a chain tension adjustment at the trolley. A belt drive that has gone loud usually means the trolley or the motor gear is worn.
When to stop
If you see a gap in the coiled spring above the door, a frayed or hanging cable, or the door sitting visibly crooked, stop. Those carry enough stored energy to cause serious injury. That is a call, not a DIY afternoon.
When to hand it over
If any of this points at springs, cables or a door that has gone out of balance, that is the point to stop. Supreme Garage Doors Repair Services covers garage door spring repair and every other garage door service across New Hampshire, with same-day slots most days and a line answered 24 hours at (888) 904-6236.